Tap to unmute

How to make your 3D printer smart and silent with the TMC2130!

Share
Embed
  • Published on Dec 8, 2017
  • The TMC2130 is a stepper motor driver that is specifically designed for 3D printers - and it works so well that even Prusa is using it on their new MK3! In this video, I'll show you how to upgrade your own 3D printer with the same driver and get some of the sweet benefits an
    Thank you to Trinamic for sponsoring this guide! Check out their full product range here trinamic.com/
    🛒 TMC2130 SilentStepStick 🇩🇪 www.watterott.com/de/SilentSte...
    🛒 TMC2130 SilentStepStick 🇺🇸 www.filastruder.com/products/...
    🛒 TMC2130 SilentStepStick www.digikey.com/product-detai...
    🛒 Mini breadboards s.click.aliexpress.com/e/IieYb2f
    🛒 Jumper wires plug to socket s.click.aliexpress.com/e/JYnqZNZ
    🛒 Jumper wires socket to socket s.click.aliexpress.com/e/6qjQnqB (you need these for the DIAG pins)
    💙 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! www.patreon.com/toms3dp
    💙 Shirts! Baseball caps. Nappies? toms3d.org/ribbit
    Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
    🎥 All my video gear toms3d.org/my-gear
    🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! ru-clip.com/channel/UCzUg...
    👐 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! www.patreon.com/toms3dp
  • Science & TechnologyScience & Technology

Comments • 832

  • Ben Levi
    Ben Levi 4 years ago +1

    Tom, thank you for another great video!
    Two weeks ago, i ordered 4 x tmc2130 and i had few concerns about the configuration. then you came with your awesome video and made it more clear.
    I designed a linear rails mod (mgn12) for my Anet A8 ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:2567757 ), hopefully with the tmc-2130 it will preform even better..
    Thanks :-)

  • GIRO
    GIRO 4 years ago

    Hello Thomas!
    I have to thank you for all the Know-how you share with the community. I really appreciate your work and I'm a huge fan of what you do with 3D printers. For me as an electrical engineering student I do have to say that the quality of your information is amazing. I would love to see more engineering updates for DIY 3D printers.
    With 2018 heading infront of us I wish you all the best for the new year and I hope to see you soon in the new year.
    Best regards from Köln, Germany!

  • Stephen Ludgate
    Stephen Ludgate 4 years ago

    Awesome video Tom, really useful and worth looking into the TCM2130's. I use TCM2100 and love them. Was impressed with how Prusa used the feedback of these new chips to add in lots of "fail safe" and error checking - just what the next generation of 3D printers need.

  • cucu
    cucu 4 years ago +1

    Dude! This is insane! I've just installed 4 of these drivers on an ultimaker clone, in standalone mode and all I had to do was remove a couple jumpers, reverse the steppers and change z steps/mm. I didn't even have to change the firmware. It's like I have a completely new, silent, cooler, printer. I can't believe how great these work. It's completely silent.
    Thank you for making us aware of these drivers. It's hands down absolutely the best upgrade one can make to a printer. Again, can't thank you enough!

  • ByteOfBlender
    ByteOfBlender 4 years ago +1

    Very interesting and informative. I have been building a camera slider with a TMC2130 and I am loving how silent it is!

  • Ryukachoo
    Ryukachoo 4 years ago +43

    You could make it even quieter by converting to small noctua fans, those things have great airflow and are silent

    • EL Valenin
      EL Valenin 3 years ago

      @wito wtf (wild turbo fan) windy is an extreme fan.

    • Dave D
      Dave D 3 years ago

      @Ryukachoo A Voltage Davider or A Buck Converter would work I believe.

    • LoganDark
      LoganDark 4 years ago +1

      buck-boost converter

    • MSTWNTD
      MSTWNTD 4 years ago +2

      I think they do that on purpose because everyone I show my printer to asks about them.

    • Piers
      Piers 4 years ago +1

      Quieter....and more beige and brown!
      It sure does make them stand out from the crowd, but not in a good way.

  • Joseph Schmoberg
    Joseph Schmoberg 4 years ago +1

    Great in depth video as usual from you, wish you had a version showing it being done for some of us who can't get our nerd on quit right ;- )

  • Printerstein
    Printerstein 4 years ago

    Good stuff, thanks Tom! Love your tech videos. I just built a noisy printer and these would work great for shutting it up.

  • Muele
    Muele 4 years ago

    Nice video. And about time stepper drivers for these machines are updated. Take a look at the development that has happened for ESCs for multicopters (FPV/Racers) over the last couple of years. It's a world of difference. I'm sure this is a nice step. But also that there are plenty more optimization ahead of us.

  • Johannes Otto
    Johannes Otto 4 years ago

    Thanks Tom. I instantly bought the drivers after watching the video. I soldered them, wired them up and put them in wrong direction on my board. I fryed them. I ordered 3 new ones and now my printer is super quiet. Also i got the feeling that my print quality has improved.
    I connected them to the icsp-header for spi. For the 3 CS-Pins, I could use my ZMin-Pins (Delta Printer).
    Like a new printer!!!

  • Felix Garcia
    Felix Garcia 4 years ago

    For those of us that already have TL smoothers installed, do you recommend removing them when upgrading to these drivers? Or no harm done if left installed?

  • TobiasPl
    TobiasPl 4 years ago

    Hey Tom, great video and awesome detail! I was just wondering (as I'm still waiting for my anycubic i3 to arrive), are both Z-Achis motors driven by one driver? You didn't set the Z2 in the config and in your schematics there is only 1 Z-Driver. I thought maybe there was a way to home both Z-Achis individually, eliminating the need to align them equally by hand and making sure they never go out of sync - or does that barely ever happen in real life? Thank you!

    • Leander Berg
      Leander Berg 4 months ago

      Maybe there are two drivers but they receive signals from the same output pins on the controller? That's what I do on my CNC router, two y axis motors and drivers but step and direction inputs from the same Arduino pins

  • PerpetualCubingMachine

    Wow! This looks great! I will definitely be upgrading my X and Y axis to these drivers for my new printer.

  • bombthesystemsnl
    bombthesystemsnl 4 years ago

    Awesome guide!I am thinking of upgrading to these drivers.
    They run smoother so you should get better prints right?It would be nice if you also demonstrated print quality comparison between the two drivers.
    If noise wasn't a problem would you recommend them?
    Thanks :)

  • Stephen Lewis
    Stephen Lewis 4 years ago +16

    Hey Tom, Any idea when we'll be getting that video explaining different pin usage when we have an LCD? Or maybe a video explaining how to update firmware without having to reconfigure it every time?

    • mad_milchmann
      mad_milchmann 2 years ago

      I was looking for the videoon the pin usage too... Seems Tom has forgotten about it :/

  • MoBaSa
    MoBaSa 4 years ago +1

    Great job as usual, I look forward to the setting up Marlin 1.1.6 video. I've been debating moving from 1.1.4.

  • Ryan Stevens
    Ryan Stevens 4 years ago

    Your video production is on point,Tom! You've come a long way :)

  • Scruff R
    Scruff R 4 years ago

    Hi Tom, great video again! Just one thing is keeps bugging me since your first video about the TMCs. Since then I'm planning on upgrading my Creality CR10 for dual extrusion and hence need a new board with new drivers. So I thought these would be a great choice but then read about the fact that the drivers might get fried when applying Vio before VM (see github.com/watterott/SilentStepStick/blob/master/docs/FAQ.md#silentstepsticks-with-variable-3-5v-logic-voltage ). I got the impression that this might pose a problem with many RAMPS boards as you don't really have full control over that. For instance if you happen to have a RasPi/OctoPi connected to the USB port the board would be powered off that without VM present. Or as in my case (and I think you had a similar setup on your Mendel 90) when using an ATX PSU to keep the control board powered via +5VSB and only powering the rest when needed.
    What do you think about that? Could this be an issue that might need to be addressed in a follow-up video? Or is this a non-issue with a simple workaround?
    I'd love to hear your opinion.

  • Spike
    Spike 4 years ago +59

    Exactly the sort of technical vids I love. Thank you Tom

    • Patrick Murphy
      Patrick Murphy 4 years ago +2

      Yeah for the nube like me this is gold ! I'm learning so much with Tom's vids

    • eWOLF
      eWOLF 4 years ago +3

      Yeah, he finally made video for normal human beings. This is something that regular people with jobs can watch. :)

  • DMonZ1988
    DMonZ1988 4 years ago +2

    thank you tom, this was an absolutely fantastic video! SO helpful and an incredible upgrade for sure.
    do you have/can you get an affiliate link for watterott? i'll definitely be ordering some (soon) and it'd be great if it helps you out.

  • Alex Kenis
    Alex Kenis 4 years ago +1

    HEY, great timing! I was just digging through the data sheets for these drivers last night. The SPI connection was particularly compelling to me. I also saw reference in the literature to an encoder input, but according to Trinamic that was an error... oh well: I would like a simple on-chip solution to close the loop, but these will do for now. I plan to put them through their paces after the holiday with 2 Amp steppers at higher speeds, so we’ll see how they hold up. If they fry, I'll give the TMC2660 a go.

  • Zachrandir
    Zachrandir 4 years ago +1

    I would love a video giving an overview of everything involved with the electronics and control solution out there.
    I'm looking into upgrading my ardunio mega/ramps1.4 based printer to a better control board/stepper drivers, but I'm a bit lost, is it a good idea to move to 32 bit yet or should I wait till marlin catches up?

  • Thump2010
    Thump2010 4 years ago +1

    As usual you put out a great video.
    I just wanted to give some feedback, the background music was a bit loud and in some instances made it hard to hear you or was distracting away from what you were saying.
    Thank you for all you do for the community.

  • Steve Nottingham
    Steve Nottingham 4 years ago +1

    Awesome video. The type only you can do! exactly why I subscribe. You make it easy to follow along and this video will be relevant for years just like your other firmware/hardware vids.

  • Justin Allen
    Justin Allen 4 years ago

    Wow, this is awesome! Is it just me or shouldn't these enable (once it's in the software) auto bed leveling without extra sensors?

  • Tom Meehan
    Tom Meehan 4 years ago

    Thanks so much for this, I'm in the process of rebuilding a printer and this will really help a lot.

  • Rodney Bosco
    Rodney Bosco 2 years ago

    Tom - You and Joel have quickly become my go-to gurus for all things 3D printer. Your videos are great for learning, even if my feeble Boomer brain occasionally has trouble keeping up. In following this video I heard you mention that with the TMC 2100 drivers you no longer have to manually calibrate them. My son is running a maker build i3 clone with an MKS Gen L board and A4288 drivers but I just purchased TMC 2208 stepper drivers, which I assume are an upgrade of the 2100s. I’d prefer to use software to handle the calibration if it will be more reliable so any advice you can give on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the fantastic work and thanks in advance.

  • Mateusz Mat
    Mateusz Mat 3 years ago

    Apart from affecting the noise and making the printer smart, how do the TMCs affect the quality of the prints? I'm looking to upgrade the standard ender 3 board to an MKS with TMCs in it but I was wondering if the quality of the prints would also improve.

  • lukie80de
    lukie80de 2 years ago

    I can verify that the TMC2100 lose steps in 'Stealth Chop'. This might be circumvented by proper configuration via SPI. Nevertheless 'Spread Cycle' is still quieter than other drivers.

  • Dave Ott
    Dave Ott 4 years ago

    Just got my old Prusa I3 Czar upgraded with these (sort of a why not upgrade while doing a bunch of other tweaks) and they work just as advertised/reviewed. Your guide was all that I needed to get them together, soldered/wired up and Marlin configured. Thanks for laying the groundwork! So much smoother and the silent running claims are not exaggerated... about all i hear is my fan and bed springs wiggling at this point... night and day from the old unknown vintage A4988s on there previously.

  • Chiranth Yareseeme
    Chiranth Yareseeme 4 years ago

    Thank you very much Tom. The video was very informative. I just wanted to know if the same will work on arduino Due + RADDS, because i was thinking to upgrade to 32-bit. Also, i would be very happy to see a video from you on upgrading from RAMPS to RADDS , because a lot of people say it gives very good quality prints. And, one last thing, what if i want to run some beefy 20Kgcm steppers with the Trinamic goodness (planning to use those to avoid step loss issues).

  • Gilles Gilles
    Gilles Gilles 2 years ago

    Hello Thomas,
    What about dampers to reduce noise ? Will it impact printing quality ? Any drawback ?

  • Vince Williams
    Vince Williams 4 years ago

    After 3 months of using TMC2130's on my x and y axis, I removed them both today and refitted the original 4988 drivers, heres why. With the 2130s fitted I found that yes they ran very quiet, but they ran very hot, so hot that you must provide extra active cooling ( thats more fan noise). I found that I had to turn the print speed down quite a lot, plus the accel by a substantial amount too. I also noticed that both my X and Y motors ran a lot hotter (too hot to hold my hand on) even though they were running at a slower print speed. My printing was also unreliable as it often failed during the print with missed steps and layer shift all due to the 2130 drivers overheating. So, overall the TMC2130 drivers are nice and quiet, but if you want reliable prints every time, and at a faster speed, then I recommend to stick with the 4988 drivers and just get used to the musical noise!

  • imbw267
    imbw267 4 years ago

    Looking good @ 60FPS! Keep up the fantastic work Tom!

  • Mischa Gielen
    Mischa Gielen 4 years ago

    Again a great video Tom, getting addicted to them. Can this upgrade be done too on my Prusa i3 Pro B with the GT2560 controller board? I believe this board is equipped with StepStick A4988 Stepper Driver Modules.

  • devalopr
    devalopr 4 years ago +1

    since i saw tom's mk3 video, i fell in love with the 2130, i was looking into integrating the 2130 in my ramps, suddenly the youtube subscription notification showed up on time :), thanks tom , love your videos

  • Greg Johnson
    Greg Johnson 4 years ago

    Hi Tom!
    I'm about to ditch the problematic Melzi board in my original Maker Select and it seems the Arduino Mega + RAMPS configuration is the goto. You mention in this video that it's possibly the worst combination possible, but it's what everyone uses.
    My question is: What would you suggest in my situation? I have a CR-10 on its way so my i3 can have downtime. My goal is to make this printer bulletproof reliable and I'm happy to get my hands dirty.
    Would love your input and expertise.

  • Tomasu82
    Tomasu82 4 years ago +1

    Good video as always. Just wish they came a little more frequently. Always look forward to your videos.

  • Witsenburg
    Witsenburg 3 years ago

    Hi, thanks for the great video, I just ordered the drivers. When you place the drivers (7:39), I see no jumpers underneath on the RAMPS. When you program (13:40) I read 16 microsteps in your firmware. Doesn’t no jumpers mean no microstepping? And with the 256 stepping of the 2130, do we need 16th microstepping on the RAMPS? Thanks!

  • Ken Bessler
    Ken Bessler 4 years ago

    This brings back the 80's for me when I converted a brand new Atari 520stm to a 1040stm by piggy backing an insane number of cmos memory chips except for a few pins which had to be bent up and (gulp) wire wrapped like trolly wires to the MCU. I bought a 220v soldering pencil in Hanau, Germany and it worked so well (32 bit with 1 meg ram in 86 was hot) that when I went to the US in 86 I made a 110/220 upconverter for it and today I used it with it's original tip to solder the pins on my new 2130's. Got my nerd up? Nerdgasm! LOL Now how do I get around not having Aux 3? Ramps 1.4

  • Kittera McCloud
    Kittera McCloud 4 years ago

    Tom, there is a pretty important piece of info missing from this video.
    Unlike any driver we've worked with before, these suddenly care about how you power them up. Motor voltage has to come up before logic voltage, and logic has to go out before Motor voltage. I can't fathom why they wouldn't just put a diode somewhere to prevent this annoyance, but giving these drivers logic voltage only has a chance to blow them.
    I know, because it happened to me. Only when it happened I was quite frustrated and very confused because the only place where this is mentioned is in Waterott's FAQ page. No videos, no announcements, no anything to make the fact more widely known. Were it not for the fact that I hadn't been able to find my way to Waterott's page before it happened, I wouldn't have received a replacement.
    In a nutshell, people need to be warned that they can't have a USB cable providing power to the board from a computer or an OctoPi without the power supply being on too. USB has to be unplugged before the printer is turned off, and USB cannot be plugged in before turning on the printer's power supply. For such a divergence as this is from what has become common knowledge regarding 3D printer electronics, I am utterly dissatisfied with how it was, or in this case seemingly wasn't, mentioned a lot more and with more urgency.
    Some people have scolded me saying I shouldn't be connecting the outputs of two regulated sources together. Wouldn't this be common knowledge if printers were failing every time someone hosted GCODE to them from a computer? Most reprap boards take 5V power from an onboard regulator and from USB, but there's no isolation between them. And need I mention the many side by side VRM's that supply CPU's on motherboards? Anyways, I digress. I doubt many people will know how to, or even be able to remove JUST the 5V connection from the USB side of the board while maintaining the data connections. It's not like there's a wire one can just cut.

  • Silvio Franco
    Silvio Franco 3 years ago

    Tom, thanks for video and all information your share with the community. I am in Brazil and I have a CR 10. Also I am building a 3D Printer from scratch - a cr10 clone. I am installing MKS-Gen 1.4 with TMC 2130 drivers on it. What are some other videos you recommend me to guide me in a full configuration of my build. Thanks a lot.

  • Krishnakumar Malu
    Krishnakumar Malu 4 years ago

    Excellent Video! Thank you so much. Upgrading to TMC2130 made it so much easy. Now, looking forward to changing pins video (from Aux3 to Aux 2? so that it doesnt interfere with using LCD) and another video for transferring old Marlin setup to new one. Great work as always!

    • Krishnakumar Malu
      Krishnakumar Malu 4 years ago

      Knu7Nuk3m thanks! I’ll give it a go..,

    • Knu7Nuk3m
      Knu7Nuk3m 4 years ago +1

      Hi krishnakumar You can use all the Pins in parallel to the LCD except for the Cable Select Pins. I just changed the the two CS Pins for X and Y in Marlin (pins_ramps.h) X_CS_PIN to 66 and Y_CS_PIN to 44. Works like a charm

  • Project: Blue Smoke Monster

    Watched your video several times, and went to town doing this on my own TMC2130's and RAMPS 1.4 board. When I power the board up, the X axis tries to move for a few seconds (but the motor doesn't turn - it sounds like it wants to, but its stalling/skipping). Thought maybe it was a wiring issue so I reversed the phase on the motor, it turns even less (so I think it's a microstepping issue). I've adjusted every parameter I know to, and I've not been able to make the motor spin. Any thoughts? I'm one step shy of pulling my TMC2130's and putting them on a breadboard and trying to make them work in non SPI mode (but whats the fun in that).

  • lapoltba
    lapoltba 4 years ago

    I just got a set of these for my folgertech FT5 because holy resonance batman.... They squeal quite a bit, but they are definitely quieter overall. Motion is much more fluid and they seem to function perfectly. I have them in standalone mode right now, but I intend to get them talking to the MKS board and play around with the marlin firmware.

  • Kris Ferein
    Kris Ferein 4 years ago +4

    Hi Thomas; great video! But... how could this be done with the MK2's Rambo mini 1.3a that include the motor drivers onboard?

    • TechnoidProduction
      TechnoidProduction 4 years ago +1

      I really want to add these drivers to my mk2 (I'm getting the mk2.5) but obviously having some of the mk3 features would be awesome)

  • Doug Walmsley
    Doug Walmsley 4 years ago

    Thanks Tom for the video. I have an Azteeg X3 Pro 8-driver chip board, and I'm struggling to figure out how to employ your pin-out for the TMC2130 to work on my board. I have 4 new 2130 and 4 new 2100 TMC chips. I plan to install the 2130 for X, Y, Z1 Z2 and the 2100 will handle the extruder motors. Any suggestions?

  • rookieno1
    rookieno1 4 years ago +1

    I was about to buy one of these but were confused concerning the variety of the tmc family. Thanks for clearing me up, Tom!

  • sportline105
    sportline105 4 years ago

    Hi Tom,
    happy new year! :) Do you have an idea for setting up the current on a smoothieware-based board? I'm using the Re-Arm with a Ramps-Board.

  • Tchad Rogers
    Tchad Rogers 4 years ago

    I just finished adding these to my Original Prusa i3 Mk2, following this guide. I had to swap the Mini Rambo board out for one that supports removable drivers - I went with a generic MKS Gen 1.4. Since the Original i3 Mk2 has an LCD, I changed the CS pins to use the board's servo pins (which I don't use): 11, 6, 5, and 4. I had to reconfigure vanilla Marlin from scratch, since the Prusa fork of Marlin is so far out of sync with vanilla, it doesn't support the 2130s (except in the Mk3 fork of course, which would have been even more work to back-port). Re-configuring vanilla Marlin from scratch for the original i3, but with a MKS Gen board ended up being the hardest part of the whole process. Once I got Marlin working using A4988's I had laying around, the rest was relatively easy. The whole process took me about 1.5 days. With a printer that has a vanilla Marlin config already, like an Anet or Creality, it probably only would have been 1/2 day. My printer went from 75 dB max during printing (as measured by an app on my phone) to 60 dB. Wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks for the awesome video, Tom!

  • JDesignSwe
    JDesignSwe 4 years ago

    Thomas, I need your advice.
    Im going to run a ramps 1.4 board and some larger nema17 steppers (rated 2A) for my DIY printer. Will this TMC2130 driver suffice? or do you think I should go with a better driver/control board overall?
    Cheers!

  • Ron Floyd
    Ron Floyd 4 years ago +2

    Well done Tom. This may be a mod I'll look at in the future. Gotta get my feet wet in the 3D printing end first. Thanks.

  • Louis Cypher
    Louis Cypher 3 years ago

    Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?

  • davidsrichter
    davidsrichter 4 years ago

    Great video! But do you have tips or a guide on making it work with the lcd display?

  • rkstreet63
    rkstreet63 4 years ago

    Thomas you are AMAZING at what you do. Your public speaking skills are very good, and have a very clever sense of humor.
    Thank you for what you do, it makes a positive difference.
    kevin

  • Russell King
    Russell King 3 years ago

    Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?

  • Sean Blake
    Sean Blake 4 years ago

    Having just acquired a set of four of these modules I have managed to blow three of them by inserting one the wrong way :(..sad times..however I was wondering what to do with my last remaining TMC2130 module so I decided I would use it to drive my extruder motor (perhaps the most overlooked 3D-printer axis where high-end drivers are concerned) the difference this has made to my print quality is absolutely phenomenal...so my advice would be if you cant afford a completely new set of TMC2130 modules at least get one for the extruder, the layer lines are much more consistent, print quality increases vastly and retraction noise is greatly reduced.

  • Robin Evans
    Robin Evans 4 years ago +15

    Since theirs a couple of people asking about the TMC 2208's I'll talk about them briefly. First off, yes they do have Stealthchop2, but i'm afraid I have no way of comparing it to the 2130 version, i'm running a large (300mmx300mmx350mm) printer on them using some very beefy 0.9degree steppers.
    They are virtually silent, I have to check its running sometime and i'm usually sat 3 feet away!
    This is on a RADDS board running Reprapfirmware 1.19 using a 24v power supply which is pretty esoteric as far as configs go...
    Configuration is very different, you can use them as direct drop in replacements for the A4988's and they just work, however to adjust them you need to use a serial interface, theres no SPI support on these, and currently Marlin does not support this method. I built an programming board to do this, since my Z axis is very heavy (large alu plate on a openbuilds frame) and stealthchop wasn;t strong enough for me. There's a desktop app for this which I used to switch the board for my Z axis into Spreadcycle, the noise is irreverent since the x axis doesn't go very fast.
    Be aware the serial pins are not connected at first you need to connect a solder jumper on the underside of the board, which can be fiddly (especially if like me you accidentally solder the pins on first! I'll try and answer any questions, but I would say if your not sure and using Marlin, get the 2130's since you'll get all the features Tom talks about. If your not using Marlin, its a hard choice since i'm not sure on the status on the TMC support in other firmwares. For me they are super quiet and awesome, but my hardware is a bit off the norm!

    • TORDesign
      TORDesign 4 years ago

      Thanks for the info Robin. I installed 2208s and they are quieter, but not all the time. Im worried I have them misconfigured - when moving slower they shake the printer. I removed one jumper on the mks board, the third one, and left the others there, and trimmed to 1v. Did I install them wrong?

    • Leonardo Lacchini
      Leonardo Lacchini 4 years ago

      Now, Marlin 1.1.8 support 2208, have you tried this version ? i am waiting mks version of 2208 from aliexpress :)

    • Glorfindel
      Glorfindel 4 years ago

      Thanks for the info on the 2208. Very helpful.

    • Robin Evans
      Robin Evans 4 years ago +1

      Hi npgoalkeeper_ With the 2208's no firmware i'm aware of supports all the features on RADDS, Reprapfirmware itself runs fine but lacking the networking features, so if it ever supports the serial interface and featureset in theory the board would be fine, however RADDS is a bit of an edge case so its hard to tell what will happen. the Reprapfirmware guys do have a good chunk of the TMC features working on the Duet Boards, but they use the 2660 series drivers i'm not sure how different they are to 2130's or 2208's so I can't recommend picking up the RADDS if you want more than basic features with the TMC stepper drivers. I think its totally possible as long as the firmware support it, but RADDS is a 32bit board so the standard Marlin doesn't work on it.

    • Robin Evans
      Robin Evans 4 years ago

      Hi Jamie, Yes that's right, the XY and E are doing exactly that, however the Z axis did need to be changed to Spreadcycle which you can only do via the serial programming.

  • charl13is
    charl13is 3 years ago

    Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?

  • Acrimonious Mirth
    Acrimonious Mirth 4 years ago +2

    Always thought they were a bit pricey as my printer is quiet already... but if this is how the current detection is done I am seriously considering the investment for both my machines!!!

    • digibluh
      digibluh 4 years ago

      if it works don't fix it really... but if tinkering and have the money it's probably a good investment. it's really quiet, plus you could remove the switches so less wires is always nice.... however sensorless homing and skipped steps need some tweaking/calibration since it's motor dependent.

  • LazerLord10
    LazerLord10 4 years ago +55

    Tom, I really liked this video, but the "sideways" shots that were interjected every so often didn't really look great. If it's to indicate towards an object you're holding it works fine, but the rest of it doesn't really look great to me. The fact that it changes to 30fps makes it stand out a bit more to me.
    Just my thoughts. Still a great video! I may buy a set of these for my FT-5.

    • Anonymouspock
      Anonymouspock 3 years ago +1

      It's a very popular cinematography technique to hide edits: the audio is easy to mess with, the video not so much so if you cut over to something else, the discontinuity is hidden.

    • leifjames53
      leifjames53 3 years ago

      I liked it kept me focused lol

    • EddTheBob
      EddTheBob 4 years ago

      LazerLord10 noticed it when I saw it... ur right

    • Sarp Kurkcu
      Sarp Kurkcu 4 years ago +1

      Most irritating about the side shots is unfortunately the change of frame rate. Instead of using two different rate, maybe you can use the minimum as a baseline? I mean, with proper shutter speeds 24fps is more than enough for lots of things :)
      Anyway, very instructive and informative video. Good job!

    • Simon Hills
      Simon Hills 4 years ago +1

      I liked it Tom, but noticed the frame rate drop too.

  • Anonymouspock
    Anonymouspock 4 years ago +2

    The big issue with these is that they can't work with printers with idle power without destroying themselves. (See "VM always needed" in the GitHub readme)
    Actually I read some more and it seems that there is some pretty "interesting" stuff happening with all of them where current flows backwards into the motor supply if logic supply is up first.

    • spiritcore1
      spiritcore1 4 years ago

      So maybe a diode will help and then the the VIO can be powered before?

  • SM-3D
    SM-3D 2 years ago

    did tom ever show us how to configure the use of other pins in another video? for using the LCD as well as the driver functions ?

  • AuFcoKxXx
    AuFcoKxXx 4 years ago

    Nice Video Guide! I did this update to my AM8 with ramps 1.4. Its working... ok... With stealthchop i had layershifts and so i reduced my acceleration. But spreadcycle (also when doing sensorless homing) isn't working with my printer. there is such an unpleasant chirping coming from the stepper motors. Is there any way to fix that?

  • Robert Klauco
    Robert Klauco 4 years ago

    With the TMC, it might be a good idea to revisit the water cooling hotend - as the hotend cooling fan is now the loudest part of my printer...

  • Robert Kras
    Robert Kras 4 years ago

    A better way to do the SPI and diag wiring would be to solder the wires on the bottom of the ramps - using the little breadboard is way too tenuous (not to mention tacky), IMHO.
    This would leave the SPI aux available for display/SD etc. (if you move the TMC enables off that connector that is.)

  • iamVynz
    iamVynz 3 years ago

    Hey Tom, How do I config this to use AUX-1 instead of AUX-3 as it is being used by a display. Great vid! Thank you

  • Travis Bills
    Travis Bills 4 years ago

    1) This chip looks amazing!
    2) Will this work with the smoothieboard?
    I have a printrboard and am looking to upgrade. Your review on the smoothieboard made me want one but I would also like to incorporate this chip. If a smoothieboard will not work could you recommend a board? My printer was originally a two-up by qubd but I have since heavily modified it to be an H bot style.

    • Dave D
      Dave D 3 years ago

      I may be wrong but as I understand it, you should no longer require the smoothie board with the TMC Drivers.

  • Kyuar
    Kyuar 4 years ago +1

    Although there might be no answer...
    I was wondering, because many people say "Don't use TMC2100 on a Delta Printer - They don't have that positive effect on them as they do on Cartesian or CoreXY printers" - I didn't try it out so far.
    But - does this change with the TMC2130? As I own a ATOM 2.5EX printer, i'd think it'd be super awesome if you try those TMC2130 on any Delta (preferably the ATOM :P )
    Thanks for your cool videos with perfect explanations :)

  • Maximillian Smith
    Maximillian Smith 4 years ago

    Thank you, looking forward to seeing what I can do to retain my LCD.

  • AbeFM
    AbeFM 4 years ago

    You do amazing work, sir.

  • ntesla66
    ntesla66 4 years ago +2

    Trinamic For The Win!!! I love the TMC2660 drivers on my Duet WiFi. Excellent video, Thanks Tom!

  • Brian Ipsen
    Brian Ipsen 4 years ago

    As AUX3 is being used, I guess there's a challenge having the adapter PCB for the 12864 RepRap Discount display installed. I assume, that other pins on AUX1 and/or AUX2 can be used as well, even though it probably will require a bit of modifications in the pins_RAMPS.h file....

  • Simon Khoury
    Simon Khoury 4 years ago

    By the time you've bought a controller and 4x tmc2130 drivers then soldered it all up and reconfigured marlin you might as well have bought a Duet and be able to run 2.8A motors on tmc2660 in silence plus all other benefits. But as an instructional video it was good it shows you how to do it.

  • Sup yo
    Sup yo 4 years ago +1

    Is there any benefits using the TMC2130 over TMC2100 if i don't plan to use the UART interface? i see it has features such as CoolStep ,stallGuard and dcStep that the TMC2100 is missing, but they might be useless anyway without the UART connection? Great video btw!

  • Mark Giblin
    Mark Giblin 4 years ago

    I love this but the price is a bit steep.
    I had a trawl of the usual sites and hobbyist sites build around 3D stuff and have tried to find some that are cheaper than they were a few months back, so far the cheapest I found was £4.86 each (+p&p) which means £5.80 ish per chipset which is still a fair bit for the item, if you are wanting to do the whole board and have 5 motors, adds up quick.

  • Heliosxx
    Heliosxx 4 years ago

    Hey Tom, do you use the TMC2130 endstop for Z too? or is it too imprecise?

  • Alex Bailey
    Alex Bailey 4 years ago +8

    Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?

    • Kenan K
      Kenan K 4 years ago

      You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.

    • Kenan K
      Kenan K 4 years ago +1

      You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.

    • David Ferreira
      David Ferreira 4 years ago +2

      Yes, Tom. Please give us that lcd instruction!

  • Matt Berry
    Matt Berry 4 years ago

    This was a big help for me. Thanks.
    I did get a bunch of errors when trying to include the 'TMC2130Stepper' library, it just wouldn't compile at all. There were three .h files that are included in the library, and it seems that only the TMC2130Stepper.h file was needed. I commented out the other two: 'TMC2130Stepper_REGDEFS.h' and 'TMC2130Stepper_UTILITY.h' which allowed me to compile and upload the sketch with no problem. Hope that helps someone else.

  • Zsolt B
    Zsolt B 4 years ago +12

    I am so glad to see another "How to" video from you Thomas. These made me subscribe a year ago;)

  • Stephen Wollenberg

    Appreciate for your video, building a new printer, and your info was very helpful for the TMC2130! Thanks :)

  • Kai Krovlev
    Kai Krovlev 4 years ago +1

    Hello there! Greetings from cold Russia.
    Joined to your channed recently, but a big fan already. Great tips for newcommers, keep up the good work!
    Please tell me, Is it worth bying cheap chinese 3D printer(like anet/tevo etc.) in order to build my own thing from scratch by your guides?
    And is it ok to use aluminium profiles for the frame (e.g. x3 stacked 2mm plates together)?
    Thanks.

  • Philip Arny
    Philip Arny 4 years ago

    2 questions: 1st, could you post a link to the wiring diagrams? They went by too fast for me. 2nd, I seem to be missing something - how does the fw know how to address the x driver vs the y driver? Do you number them somewhere (x is 0, y is 1, z is 2, e is 3) or is there some other way you're selecting the correct driver for, say, the x axis?

  • Robothut
    Robothut 4 years ago +1

    Great Job Tom. a "Silent night" of printing is on the way !

  • Björn Huisman
    Björn Huisman 4 years ago +1

    Good job Thomas! Thanx for giving me some new things i have to do on my printer.

  • Anthony Polsinelli
    Anthony Polsinelli 2 years ago

    I know this is old, however Id love to see a "best bang for the buck" Prusa Build. I think building it out of import 2020 or 4020 extrusions(bear upgrade?), using a due and smart ramps(or other 32 bit board..), TMC 2130, Some form of auto bed leveling, filament runout and jam sensor(seems there are some of these online like the JamSentry), the MK3 build surface. Im sure there are plenty of other ideas that can be thrown in, but id love to see your idea of the best bang for the buck Prusa

  • mat
    mat 4 years ago +1

    if you need to do a new marlin configure video, lin_advance, UBL, possible firmware retraction, and fil width with volumetric are some complex features (at least the advance k value and UBL)

  • Brian Artigas
    Brian Artigas 4 years ago

    Awesome video! I can now hear all of the other mechanical noises my Robo R1 makes. Time to start printing some NinjaFlex dampers and ordering new linear bearings.

  • cerealkillers
    cerealkillers 4 years ago

    Hmmm. So I'm figuring out pins to try this on my GT2560 board. Seems like the MOSI/MISO/SCK pins in AUX3 on the RAMPS board are present in the SD card header on mine. Don't really mind losing SD but since it's SPI I think both should work - Guess we'll find out :) Looks like the select pins just go to arbitrary pins to the chip so hopefully I can use some of the spare endstop pins or similar...

  • Axel S
    Axel S 4 years ago +1

    How does this relate to the Rambo board in a MK2S? I’m assuming it would be a lot more difficult/impossible due to drivers being integrated, right? I’m assuming this is the main reason they cannot be included in the MK2.5 upgrade, not the fact that the MK3 is 24V.
    Edit: Also, great video overall, been missing these great videos lately!

    • Axel S
      Axel S 4 years ago

      Ah, very cool. Hopefully someone will investigate further, since I am too much of a coward to experiment on the one printer that i have...
      I still haven't really found a good comparison in noise between the MK2S and the MK3, and whether it depends only on the drivers or also the move to 24 volts. Depending on which is the biggest factor and how much of a noise difference there is, a 2130 upgrade could be very interesting for alot of MK2S/2.5 owners, and there are alot of us, so I definitely think the interest for a video is there, or perhaps as a section in the (hopefully) coming full MK3 review!

    • Thomas Sanladerer
      Thomas Sanladerer  4 years ago +2

      It is trivial to use external drivers with boards like the RAMBo (mini), since the step/dir/en signals are broken out to headers. Jumper those to the appropriate pins on the drivers and you're in business!
      (Future video, maybe...)

  • Bill Codey
    Bill Codey 4 years ago +1

    Thanks Tom for a very good tutorial.

  • tedder
    tedder 4 years ago

    omg. this is SO GOOD. So detailed. Some of it ("this is a comment") is really basic, but I probably benefit in other seconds where I have dumb questions. For me, this is the part of 3D printing that isn't well-discussed: how to change driver boards, fundamental changes.

  • Kris Ferein
    Kris Ferein 4 years ago

    Hi Thomas; so I found this: reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo_development#Digital_Pin_Locations but I can't tell if any of the pins on the 3 headers P1, P2, P3 can be used to connect motor drivers. In fact, P1 and P2 are used for the LCD controller.

  • Kailash Iyer
    Kailash Iyer Year ago

    I like how I'm watching this knowing damn well I'm not going to do this on my 90% stock printer

  • Hans Dampf
    Hans Dampf 4 years ago +2

    Compct and understandable. Just great man, thanks!!!

  • The Fläsh
    The Fläsh 3 years ago

    Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?

  • jimbob1er
    jimbob1er 4 years ago

    I got a problem detecting skipping step while printing in X and Y... I got the endstop replacement working fine for homing (G28). For the Z axis min, I still use an opto endstop with a 7mm flag so it home at 7mm from the nozzle. I don't want a collision between the nozzle and the bed to detect a skipped step from the stronger Z motor and lead screw. If I activate M120, it enable all endstop during printing, including the Z which is triggered under 7mm and then stop moving under 7mm. Marlin activate endstop globally, I don't know how to disable the Z min endstop alone during printing.

  • Bill Clark
    Bill Clark 4 years ago

    Thomas, was this example on 12v? Also could you have a 12v setup with 2560/1.4 and run 24v or higher to the vmot and ground for the drivers only or would this affect the ability to control all the features through FW?

  • Werner Driehorst
    Werner Driehorst 3 years ago

    Hello Mr. Thomas Sanladerer,
    I have seen her contribution to the TMC2130! I have just rebuilt my MKS Gen L V1.0 with the TMC2100 from Watterott! What else should I pay attention to which settings, such as: energizing the individual axes (X-Y-Z-E0),
    Do you still need to solder bridges to the TMC2100?
    What software settings are needed in the Marlin firmware?
    Especially what you have to pay attention to, so that the board and the TMC2100 will not break ?!
    I would be very grateful to you for your help, as I am still a newcomer to 3D printers!
    My printer is the JGAurora A5.
    Sincerely, Werner Driehorst

  • Acheron Thymos
    Acheron Thymos 4 years ago

    So I got a set of these and the question I have is, what if I want to do Sensorless Z axis homing as well? How could I accomplish that?
    A bit of backstory. My MK2 clone used mechanical endstops as I detest inductive/conductive/etc sensors and I'd prefer to keep it that way. Plugging in the Mechanical endstops just causes the Z-axis to lift a tiny bit and not do anything else, and having the Diag pin plugged in (as indicated in the video) causes it to continuously try to self destruct by running the motors even when bottomed out.

    • Knu7Nuk3m
      Knu7Nuk3m 4 years ago

      I tried it out on my highly modded Anet A8. It doesnt work with prusa type printers, because you have too much torque in the Z gear. Even lowered the Power for the Z Steppers to 400mah and the Homing Sensitivity for Z to 1. Doesnt work. Also the Bed itself uses a Spring which would make the measuring quite inaccurate, because it would always trigger somwhere else