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I'm sure the best wood makers instructions is on woodprix website.
Wouldn't know about that. I do know that my method works like a charm. Thanks, Larry
Thanks for that video that really helped me a whole lot you make it look too easy though
It is easy Robert. Don't be afraid to fail. Figure out what you did wrong and start again. Everytime and I mean everytime I have a problem or get a catch, I stop and find out what really happened and try not to repeat. That's how you make it look easy. Thanks and keep it up, Larry
A very nice bowl. Thanks for the process to get rid of the punkiness. Do you think a shellac based sanding sealer would do just as well? Thanks again.
It might work better, being that it will dry quicker. Thanks, Larry
Wow that is so impressive how you did that! The finish is amazing! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thanks Jerry, it works. Larry
Thanks. Really enjoyed your presentation
@The Wood Whirler welcome
Thank you sir, Larry
Larry ,I ave been tuning for 35 years and have turned a lot of punky white birch and others using Mix tung oil , soakin the blank over night and the next day it hardened the wood rock hard and turns easily and does not pull the grain , leaves a very smooth finish . Try a small piece of punky wood ,put in a dish with MW tung oil or equal and watch the wood sosk it up. Take it out of container ,drain , let it cure over nite or until it has cured then turn and see the results, it is amazing how it turns with no punkiness ,but as a hard piece
Do not know what Mix Tung OIl is, Tung oil, yes, but mix with what? Thanks, will look at it. Larry
Very beautiful bowl. Thanks for the great tips, some of the best psalter wood that I have found is punky but with your technique I'm ready or tackle those chunks.
Go get"m, it works. Thanks, Larry
I am loving it.
That's very interesting, sanding sealer to harden up punky wood. Thanks for sharing. I cut some maple last night and found it extremely punky in the center and was afraid it was wasted. Now, I'm gonna try this trick. Thanks my friend. Mind if I reference you in my video as I attempt my maple bowl?
Punky wood is my favorite wood.
It can be very pretty. Thanks, Larry
great video, can you tell me if you water down the sanding sealer or use it straight from the can please
@The Wood Whirler .thanks Larry, We can't seem to get the minwax water based sanding sealer here in Australia and I have been using Feast & Watson oil based which is quite thick so we dilute with what you call mineral spirits. Not sure I would get the same results using it
June, I use it straight out of the can, it is pretty thin anyway. Thanks, Larry
ill have to try my d a also havent thought of it
It works for me. Thank you, Larry
I just finished a bowl using this method. It will be my go to way of turning spalted bowls from now on. Thanks for this information. Very useful.
I use that method a lot, works well. Thanks, Larry
Extremely informative thank you. I had this exact problem.
It works, you might have to do it twice. Thanks, Larry
New boy on the block, love your work mate, thanks for shearing cobber.
Welcome, you will love woodturning once you get going. Hint, watch all the woodturning videos you can. That's how I learned. Never had a lesson in my life. thanks, Larry
So you used the super glue and wood shavings for the cracks and then you used minwax sanding sealer and wood shavings and a second coat of sanding sealer? And that will be a good fix for punky and cracked wood? I think that asking the guys that have been doing this for longer than I've been alive is always better than going to the home depot or whatever local hardware store and asking some pimple faced punk that has no idea what they are talking about....
Yes and Yes. No substitute for experience. Thanks, Larry
nice tutorial, I just watched another turner creating a bowl who should have watched this video first
Thank you Ron, Larry
Thanks I've got the very piece of timber I'm going to try that on.
Good, have fun and thank you, Larry
Hey Larry! Great video. I'd never thought about using sanding sealer. I figured rough turn and then have the bowl stabilized before finishing. I'm going to have to try your way. As far as the cracks go, would you get a better fill/glue-up if you filled the cracks with sawdust and then used a thin CA to leech down into the crack?
Thanks. CA is probably stronger, however the down side is that after CA no other finish/stain will take and it leaves a stain. With sealer you don't have that issue because you are using the sealer all over. The down side there is it is best to wait several hours before continuing. The sealer drys very hard. Take care, Larry
Friend, the damage you are forced to repair is caused by your carbide tools!..........if you use traditional gouges which cut the wood gently instead of scraping and tearing at it as the carbides do you'll find that you can get a clean undamaged finish.
What you are referring to is when I rough. I don't care about the rough finish. The next cut(s) using a shearing cut cleans up the finish as well if not better than traditional gouges. I am quite well adapted to the use of traditional tools. That is all I used for a long time before I started using carbides. I am very satisfied with my method. However, I do appreciate you opinion. And thanks for viewing, Larry
Hello Larry, just happened upon your video and enjoyed your presentation, explananotory, simplistic approach and easy listening. Bandsaw sawdust, such a simple but good idea, recycling sawdust that matches the piece, 2 birds with one stone as they say - which I'd seen this earlier ! ! Kind regards, Tony(UK)
Thanks Tony, Larry
really great video, cheers mate for posting. Have a good Christmas from across the pond.
Thank you mate, Larry
I didn’t quite get the mixture you are using to stabilize the wood.
Minwax sanding sealer and saw dust or shavings. That's it, no more. Thanks, Larry
what are you putting on it Varnish, epoxy???
Nothing, I buff the sealer. Thanks, Larry
Thanks Cynthia, beautiful name, Larry
What does punky men?
That is just before it turns rotten, still soft but usable as you saw. Rotten is just gone, gone, gone. Thanks, Larry
Next time turning punky wood mix a good wood glue with water till it’s milky but not thick. Penetration and binds very well.
That works, but you don't get any color. I've tried that. I like my way better. Thanks, Larry
NO MUSIC IS MUSIC TO MY EARS
We like the same tunes, Thanks, Larry
I really enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing, Can I ask what kind of stamp did you use at the bottom, and where can I get one?
It's not a stamp, it's burned with a laser. Here's a link to my video on it, ru-clip.com/video/xCzx2MJ-CsQ/video.htmlThank you, Larry
Great job! It looks awesome! I just subscribed!
Thanks Todd and welcome, Larry
That is a really Beautiful piece you've turned there and I really appreciate all the tip's you give during the whole process . May I inquire as to how much you would be willing to sell that piece for ? Again you did a really nice job on this as with so many of your other work's of Art . Thank You for sharing your talent's with the rest of us out here .
@The Wood Whirler Oh , Ok Larry . Thank You for the response . Keep up the great work .
Sorry I don't sell my work. Thank you, Larry
Very nice. Thank you for the video. I definitely try the sealer on my another bowl project
It definitely works. Thank you, Larry
Nice job. I tried some of the rotton wood treatment that soaked through the wood but it was a ll gummy and I could not sand it ever after week. I threw it away and the bowl!!
If you used Minwax sanding sealer, it should have dried. Was you rot wet? Other than that, it beats me, never had that problem. take care, Larry
Wow- looks like marble!
Thank you sir, LarryP.S. The problem with turning off the auto focus is that I forget to turn it back on, then it is really fuzzy. So I just leave it on.
where did he get the round plastic multi-size centering piece to use next on his band saw? Anybody know?
Penn State, about $19
Great idea. Will do this in my own shop. Thanks for the videos.
It works quite well. Thanks, Larry
great bowl Larry, i am also a wood turner and its your lathe that really have my eyes on i think you should buy a new one and throw your old one my way lol.
It's too heavy. Thanks a lot, Larry
is breathing those spalting and punking spores a good idea?
I don't recall smelling anything. I guess if you smelled enough of it every day for 20 years it might not be a good idea, otherwise I don't let it bother me. Take care, Larry
I like your calm way of explaining things. Thx for sharing.
I appreciate that and thank you, Larry
Beautiful work and good info. Thankyou
Thank you very much, Larry
great stuff Larry, I watched part two of this first, thanks for your tips keep em coming please. Ron
Boy, I sure missed this one a year ago, thanks anyway, Larry
It all looks great 👍,but !!,you are not really fixing the punky wood ,only covering it over ?and a massive failure could still occur. PS thanks for the “”no music” tutorial.🦖
@The Wood Whirler That does work. Mostly I'm finishing stair treads etc and by the time I do 2-3 they are already dry. Can't imagine Hot humid Georgia summers have any thing to do with that :) But that is a good observation Larry, take them out and wipe off the excess.
@Uncle Tim I don't get a white residue, you wipe it off before it dries. Larry
You could try a 3x3 piece and let it soak for several hours in the water based sealer. Then take it out pat it dry. Let it air dry for a couple hours, cut it in half and see how deep the sealer penetrated. It would give you a good idea how long you may need to let a piece soak for full penetration. This would be similar to soaking in a wood hardener, just much cheaper.
@The Wood Whirler Yes it does. That is a big down side of the oil based. Typically I let it dry overnight. Not one hour like the water based. I don't get the white residual from oil based like you get from water based. That's a plus. But you need to be working on multiple pieces or the long dry time can drive you crazy. I don't often use sanding sealer for turning unless I plan to put on a poly finish. Which I use a lot on bigger pieces and CA on small pieces like pens and ornaments.
@Uncle Tim Does the oil based dry a lot slower?
Larry, I very much enjoyed this video and it presents a way for improving my finish of spalted maple bowls. However, the contents of the Minwax sanding sealer seem like there may be toxicity worries if it is used to finish making bowls that will contain food. Is this a problem, or are bowels finished this way safe for serving/displaying food?
Phillip Musich b8
I think it's food safe. It is water based. I think maybe any finish is food safe given the proper time to fully cure. My opinion is that people tend to over react to "food safe". Even if it weren't food safe, you would probably have to eat 1000 gallons of salad or whatever to hurt you. Just my 2 cents worth. Thanks and take care, Larry
I just finished a spalted maple that had a nice void in it. Filled with sawdust and CA glue. It got so hot, so fast that it actually took flame. Gave me a little mini heart attack.
I guess you learned that you can't use much CA at a time. Need to layer it, one layer at a time. Wait until you get a blob of CA on your skin that you can''t get off. Cooking time!!!, Take care, Larry
Very pretty bow 👍. 🇬🇧
Thank you Kevin, Larry
Hey Larry,I just happened to find your video on punky Holly. I recently came across punky Holly and after turning it down to toothpick size trying to get past the punky I tossed it into the firewood pile.I have two questions:Is the sanding sealer the only adhesive being used to hold the saw dust onto the bowl?Would a mixture of Shellacl, Denatured alcohol, and BLO work as the sealer?I am always appreciative of the time guys like you have given to share and advance knowledge in the crafts.Ed W
Sanding sealer is it. Sure your sealer would work. But, seems to me a lot of trouble for the same result as I get with Minwax. Thanks and take care, Larry
Nice job Larry
Thanks again Ron, Larry
very nice work larry!
Thank you, Larry
Hi Larry, greetings from from Australia. Thanks for sharing your work, that bowl process was amazing. Can you tell me please the ingredients of the sealer.
I looked on the can and it doesn't list the ingredients. It's MinWax Sanding Sealer. It's water based. I get mine from Amazon about $50 US for a gallon. Here's the link. Take care, Larrywww.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6TMN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks Nick, it works for me. I like it better than using CA glue, not near as expensive and works. Take care, Larry
Your tips on repairing pulpy wood and the use of wood sealers was very helpful to me.
Glad I could help. Thanks, Larry
Larry, what kind of scraper did you use in the video? Is that a carbide cutter attached to an old HSS scraper?
No that's a home made tool I call the "Beaver". Here's the video I made on it a couple of years ago. I should be selling them in a few months. ru-clip.com/video/afs663RSYoM/video.html, Thanks, Larry
Larry, I know you published this video months ago, but life and work being what it is, I haven’t stood at my lathe at all during that time. I am spending a little time now catching up on what I’ve been missing. This video is just the inspiration I needed to make the time to get back there. I’ve had spalted pieces of a large branch that broke off one of my trees a couple years ago sitting in my rack for a couple years. I had tried working with a chunk and couldn’t overcome the punkiness. Now I know what to do, thanks to your video! Also, I’ve decided that I need a Beaver. Do you mind if I copy your design? Thanks again for your effort in putting together these videos for us.. Paul
Yeah, that's sort of on hold. Go ahead and make you one if you want. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Larry
Oh wait. Now I see in the following video that you will be selling the business end of the Beaver! That’s perfect! I’ll go figure out how to buy one. Thanks again, Larry!
Great informative video. Awesome bowl.
Little late, but thanks, Larry
Loved the way it turned out and thank u for the tip. About ready to give some a try.
You are welcome Charles, Larry
This is great! Thank you. Would you please tell me about that monster cutting tool? It sure can make some chips.
Yeah, that's my beaver. Hope to be selling them soon. Keep watching, I will do a video on it again when they are ready. Here's the original video. Thanks, Larry ru-clip.com/video/LZxqxPmo6Kk/video.html
Nice job. I can see that I need to be more patient on the application of my sealer. I need to quit rushing it. I have been using the wood hardener. I will switch to your way. Good lesson. Thanks
Better late than never, but Thanks, Larry
Very nice bowl, thanks for the information on the wood sealer and sharing.
Thanks, it really works. Take care, Larry